Let It Snow

Abend Dear Reader,

Snow has hit Konstanz. With a few on and off days, the snow finally decided to settle within Konstanz itself today, but snow was already thick out in the Germany countryside yesterday on the way to Freiburg (im Breisgau). I have actually been to Freiburg in the pre-blog era on holiday with my other half, but decided to revisit with a good friend to see the Christmas market, as well as having a bit of an explore.

It took us about two and a half hours from Konstanz on the train and dashing through the snow gave us the chance to get some of the most stunning snow scenes. Much of the landscape looked like a mix between Narnia and a Christmas card. The track took us through the heart of the Schwarzwald (Black Forest), complete with mountain ranges and little picturesque villages. Much of the snow hidden by the trees was untouched, a completely perfect winter wonderland.

Arriving in Freiburg, we headed into the Altstadt to hide out of the cold and had a look around the Münster, which was made of the local red sandstone in the year 1200. Unfortunately, as a bear of little brain, I’d forgotten to check whether my camera had the memory card in it, so I unfortunately have no photos, but trust me when I say that the tower is stunning and can be used to guide yourself to the centre of Freiburg itself. We had an explore around the medieval bits of the town, including trying to get into the university, and were delighted to wander around the Christmas market. Unfortunately though, the Kinderpunsch was not up to the standards of Konstanz and the mug I’ve managed to get back, has got a damaged pattern on it. Still, we did have a lovely day and I’m glad I did revisit it to see the town again.

This morning we awoke to a layer of icing dust sprinkled over Konstanz, which continued to fall throughout the morning. Delighted with this discovery, having dreamed of seeing the Bodensee adorned with snowflakes, my friend and I rushed outside to play in the snow. In the end we settled on building a snow-darlek; a feat which took us the best part of four hours and Jack Frost firmly nipping on my nose.

Christmas Carols

Tagchen Dear Reader,

Last night, a friend and I attended a Christmas carol and Advent song concert given by the University Choir at the Münster in the heart of the Altstadt. It gave us the chance to learn some of the traditional German carols, as we were provided with words and music - much to my delight! Luckily sat behind us was a very confident singer who was blasting out the tune at the top of her voice, so I felt like I was back at school in a choir rehearsal once again. Despite a few faltering notes at the beginning, I was happily pelting out the descants by the end. Although we knew basically none of the songs, we did start to pick them up after the first verse/chorus and had much fun trying to sight-sing in a different language.

The evening did make me miss my music though - both my music and drama have had to be sacrificied in the name of academic studies for my degree, but I do hope that my adult life will bring opportunities to return to them - I've always wanted to star in a musical, so maybe that dream will come true with some Am-Drams in the future. I'd forgotten how much a part of my life singing and music used to be; unfortunately the voice has gone a bit rusty, and the high notes keep disappearing every now and again, but I hope that some point soon they will return with a bit of practice. Sorry Mitbewohners, I'm going to be singing my heart out loud and proud in my room from now on!

Being Blown into St Gallen

Grissgodd Dear Reader,

Yesterday we ventured further into Switzerland to visit the beautiful town of Sankt Gallen. Having managed to get very lost looking for Kreuzlingen station, we managed to get the train a full hour after I had originally planned! Luckily the train journey passed quickly as we sped through the very green Swiss countryside towards the mountains, which were not as snow capped as expected at this time of year. For much of the ride the track clung closely to coast of the Bodensee, giving me the chance to see much more of the lake than I have previously achieved.

Despite the freezing cold wind and the intense downpour, St Gallen really was very pretty and as we made our way to the Altstadt, we came across the 'Stadtlounge' - a modern art installation which covered the roads and pavements in red. Built in the central square was a set of solid 'sofas' accompanied by a table and even hanging lamps, suspended between the buildings!

Continuing on, we went further into the Altstadt in order to visit the abbey complex, which is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

The cathedral is stunnning, both from outside and in, though of interest (to me at least) was the amount of confessional booths available inside. Rather than having little chapels lining the edges of the main body of the building, instead were confessional booths set into the walls and decorated with various little faces in the doors.

We then went on to visit the Stiftsbibliothek, the abbey library. This claims to be one of the oldest libraries in Europe, though I'll admit I was a little disappointed by the size - having expected a version of the Bodleian. In order to protect the floor, we had to put on huge pairs of slippers over our shoes, which gave the feeling of sliding one's way across the room (plus giving me a quick chance to practice some spins and piroettes, which I duely took). In the corner was an ancient Egyptian mummy which was a gift to St Gallen's mayor, who just sort of left it there and didn't collect it!

Having gone outside to risk looking at the biggest Christmas tree in Switzerland, the wind decided to pick up. I was very nearly carried away by a particularly violent gust and if it hadn't been for my other half holding onto me, I fear I would have been stuck up the top of one of the towers like a Christmas tree fairy...

Unfortunately, we then went along to the Christmas market, but were sadly disappointed. Having been sold as 'the most romantic Christmas market in Switzerland' by much of the internet, the lonely row of bedraggled looking shacks did not do much to raise the spirits. The lack of Kinderpunsch or Christmas market mugs meant that we bid a hasty retreat into Starbucks for tea (the only place it seems possible to get milk in a tea) and then wandered further back into the heart of the Altstadt. As we roamed aimlessly, we came across various houses with bay windows, known in the guidebook as 'oriels'. This was one of our particular favourites:

Sankt Nikolaus Tag

Frohe Weihnachten Dear Reader,

Today is Sankt Nikolaus Day in the South of Germany, and as such it is traditional to celebrate the beginnings of Christmas. Traditionally, St Nikolaus is dressed as a bishop, complete with golden staff and big book of children’s deeds. Luckily for me, St Nikolaus (who usually brings sweets for good children or coal for the naughty ones) brought my other half to me safe and sound to visit for the week.

During our trip to the Weihnachtsmarkt for the obligatory mug of Glühwein/Kinderpunsch, we spotted a St Nikolaus dressed as Father Christmas, accompanied by a version dressed all in black – Knecht Ruprecht. Knecht Ruprecht is St Nikolaus’ servant who carries the sack of presents and a long stick; in southern Germany and Austria he is depicted as Krampus, a terrifying rod-wielding devil that beats disobedient children.

Unfortunately, the weather did not also feel the festive spirit and following the lashing rain, my other half and I decided that going to a Sankt Nikolaus celebration which was arranged only by giving a Treffpunkt (meeting place) was not quite what we fancied doing. Instead we are celebrating our own version of Christmas this evening, given that we will both be spending the Big Day with our respective families. We’ve started on the awful Christmas carols and broken into our Haribo Weihnachtsbären (a festive version of Gummi-Bears dressed in little red Santa hats), plus started to wish each other Merry Christmas. We visited the Münster earlier, which is an important part of Christmas for my other half, and ate festive food, which is a vital part of mine, such as Zimtsterne (cinnamon stars) and Stutenkerl (an iced bun in the shape of St Nikolaus/Father Christmas).

However, my Christmas celebrations really began with the arrival of my family over the weekend. On Saturday, my parents and I sailed over to Meersburg in order to pick up bottles of wine from one of the local vineyards, and we also discovered a Stollen in which the fruit had been soaked in Staatsweingut Meersburg wine. Having not managed to locate a stollen in the Christmas market, this will be a luxury version for our Christmas pudding. On Sunday, my family and I ventured around the sights of Konstanz and the Christmas market. Happily my entire family seemed intent on feeding and watering me plenty, so I have, once again, eaten my way from one side of Konstanz to the other!

Advent

Grüβ Dich Dear Reader,

Depending on whether you count down to Christmas according to the church or according to your chocolates, will depend on when you started advent calendar today or a few days ago. I count myself among the chocolate dictated persons and, as such, began my advent calendar this morning. Advent calendars actually originated in Germany, it being the home of both the original idea of counting down from the first Advent Sunday to Christmas by making marks, and as the source of the first ever printed advent calendar as well. It is traditional here to make Advent Calendars for your loved one, and as such my other half has one coming his way made by yours-truly, despite the fact that I lack the artistic talent that my Mother has been blessed with. I just hope he can work out what my attempts at yule tide drawings are meant to be. My Christmas decorations are also beginning to be put up – in particular the string of stockings as an advent calendar from a lovely friend of mine - has been strung out across my bedroom. Truly, my festive season is really beginning...

As is to be expected, I have been frequenting the Weihnachtsmarkt, and have finally gotten around to taking some photos to show you! Unfortunately trying to photograph all the stands with their sparkly lights in the evening does not seem to come out too well, so these are two of the better ones.

This stand is selling traditional wooden decorations, which are very popular here in Germany. The Germans love their wood-related items, and the variety stems out from tree decorations to include candle arches, nativity scenes, and 'Smoky Men', which is where some form of insense is placed inside a little character and the smoke comes out of their mouth!

This is another quite traditional stall by way of its lights. These massive paper stars seem to be very popular and there are quite a lot of variety in terms of size, colour, pattern, numbers of points, etc. Candles and lights are much loved at the Christmas market, and it seems like every second stall has some other variety of illumination method ready for you to gawk at. It feels like getting lost in a winter wonderland each time I go there in the evenings.

I'm very thankful for...

Howdy Dear Reader,

In honour of my very first Thanksgiving, I have decided to break with the traditional of writing different forms of German greeting (though not enough to dispel with the British spellings of things). Despite American Thanksgiving having been last Thursday, the dinner was moved to Saturday, in order to give our chefs time to cook all the mountain of food that we enjoyed. According to our trivia quiz on Thanksgiving (I'm pleased to say that the Americans did well but the rest of us internationals had no idea what was going on), all the food that is traditionally eaten is native to America - turkey, potatoes, cranberry sauce...

In order to help the internationals understand what we were celebrating, our American friends told us the story of Thanksgiving. From memory of what they said, Thanksgiving is a festival which celebrates a feast that occured in the first winter of the European's arrival in America (in the year 1621). The pilgrims were struggling to find enough food, so the native Indians gave them enough excess food to enjoy a feast together for three days. Every year they celebrate this feast in order to show their thankfulness to the Indians, although the message has changed slightly over the years to 'forget' the Indian contribution and instead to be thankful to God for providing food.

Despite arriving a little late, there was still plenty of food to go around - so much so that my friend's flat is now covered in bowls of half-started dishes, much like after Christmas Day lunch through into Boxing Day. On my arrival, a container of corn was thrust in my direction with the instruction to take some out. Not knowing what this symbolised, I carefully selected three pieces. This was wise, as it turned out to be the number of things we had to tell the fellow members of our Konstanz Family what we were thankful for this year. Being told to go first also posed a small problem but I decided to stick to the situation - I'm very thankful for... (1) good friends; (2) being able to come to Konstanz; and (3) being served up a delicious dinner. It seemed that this was the right direction to go in, as many others also followed suit and while a few decided to be thankful for some stranger things - such as their bike - it seemed that the feeling was very much about acknowledging how lucky we all were to be in Germany, getting to travel and being cooked delicious food!

One of my favorite new food discoveries was that of the Pumpkin Pie. Although my sister and I have previously tried to make this delicacy, it was certainly better having been cooked by someone who knew what she was aiming for! Baked with fresh pumpkin from her 'Jack-o-Lantern', it tasted scrumptious and I am very much looking forward to eating the left over slice currently sat in my fridge.

Glühwein Drinking

Bhüeti Dear Reader,

Over the last two days I have been discovering the joys of Glühwein (mulled wine) – the traditional drink of choice at German Weihnachtsmärkte (Christmas markets).

Last night, a few friends and I hopped on a bus to the first night of the Weihnachtsmarkt Am See Konstanz. Our first port of call down by the harbour? One of the many Glühwein stands to get our first taste of Advent. Having got our hands round wonderfully warm and beautifully decorated mugs, we then wandered along being tempted by the many different offers of food along the way. In the interest of my stomach and sampling German market food, I went for a Bratwurst covered in Senf (Mustard) served straight off the grill. Unfortunately we arrived too late to see all of the non-food stands, so I shall have to return back in the daytime.

Tonight, I went to a friend’s house with a few friends and, having managed to drink a bottle cheap Glühwein, we decided to try to make our own version. Using a red wine as our basis, we then added tangerines – both segments and peel – as well as Zimt (cinnamon) and cloves. It turned into more of an English mulled wine, which is less sweet than the Glühwein we were attempting to make but equally yummy. Apparently my limited knowledge of wine stretches to be able to mull a good brew…